ROAD TRIP CANADA 2014 - PART II

BREAKFAST IN MIAMI

I didn't really share any photos from Miami, so will take this opportunity.  We found this fun little Cuban restaurant just a couple of blocks from our hotel. One stop and it became our go to place for breakfast. There were two tables besides the stools you can see and a bar on the street front where people stopped for their morning cup of Cuban coffee, an espresso with a touch of milk and plenty of demerara sugar.  Their huevos rancheros were killer as well.  There was something a little sweet about the beans and no typical chopped tomato salsa but more like a chunky enchilada sauce and fried plantains, yum.    

Room with a View

Our stop wasn't only about food and lightening storms.  Ostensibly we were going to check out South Beach and the treasure of Art Deco buildings for which it is famous.  South Beach has a curious history.  It became prominent in the '20s as a vacation spot.  That was when all the hotels were built.  I seem to remember something about a hurricane destroying the previous community but can't seem to find any verification of that.  The long and the short of it, the area went in to decline and became a haven for the senior set and drugs (remember Miami Vice).  It wasn't until the 90s that it was rediscovered and all those SRO (single room occupancy) hotels became once again fashionable.   It is the largest collection of Art Deco buildings in the west and they are doing there best rehab and renew what would have been lost to development had it not been for all those seniors living on social security in these fabulous old building which were slowly sliding in to decay.

Love the lights

       

Maybe a little more about food, I mean really, what are vacations for if not for eating.  So, we did the tour, checked out the buildings, saw the place where Gianni Versace was murdered, walked a little on the beach, visited the Holocaust Memorial and then,  time for lunch.  Saw this Art Deco Deli on our wanders and it was nearby so in we go.  The lights above were inside and you can see the exterior here.  The food, not so special, except we got as many free pickles as we could eat (3).  The waitress though, what a character.  She was 60 if she was a day, long bleached blonde hair, way too much makeup (blue eye shadow), red finger nails, hoop earrings, big colorful bead necklace and bracelet and attitude to spare.  I'm pretty certain she told us what to order all the way down to pie for dessert. 

CANADA ROAD TRIP PART II

Rise and shine.  Another day beckons and our first planned destination is within a reasonable drive.  Leaving Cranbrook behind, we head for Crownsnest Pass and the road to Calgary.  We are in the Canadian Rockies, there are ski resorts, and yet it doesn’t really feel like the mountains.  I’m a California girl, and mountains are the Sierras.  The mountains at home are so massive you hardly ever see distinct peaks, just a mass of granite and green reaching in to the sky.   At home you drive up the mountains and then you go down the other side.   The Rockies are something else entirely.  There are long green valleys and meandering streams, and enormous individual peaks capped with snow.  I guess it is more like being in Yosemite, which makes sense given both areas were carved by glaciers.  But before the mountains and glaciers we are bound for the prairies and eastern Alberta.  Our destination Crowsnest Pass and the flat lands beyond.  A quick stop at the visitor’s information center garnered us a “Visit Alberta” Frisbee and a free cup of coffee as well as plenty of recommendations on places to go and things to see.  Next stop, “Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump”.  

Buffalo Jump - Not very impressive

I’ll begin with the "Buffalo Jump" part, which has little to do with the "Head Smashed In" part.  Ever wonder how the First Nations people acquired enough buffalo to clothe themselves and make pemmican for the winter without the benefit of horses?  Back in the day, (and that day extends from 10,000 years ago, give or take, to present) when buffalo still roamed the plains from Canada to Mexico, the First Nations people gathered together to participate in the killing and slaughtering (butchering) of buffalo.  Up on the plains groups of men built cairns (stacks of rocks) demarcating an ever narrower path that directed the herd toward the cliff now called Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump.    The cairns were covered with wolf hides and “planted” with trees to discourage the buffalo from turning aside from the cliff toward which they were being herded.  Ultimately additional men lined the edges of the trail as braves in wolf skins began ushering the animals toward the cliff.  In the end, those lining the path jump out yelling, resulting in a stampede which carried the animals forward and over the cliff to their deaths.  Here, at the base of the cliff, the women and children waited and when all were assembled the process of butchering, drying and otherwise preserving the meat was carried on.  Buffalo jumps exist all over Canada and presumably the plains or the US.  Not every jump saw action every year, it was a matter of where the buffalo were found at any given time.  But this particular spot has been excavated and there was evidence of a long standing use of these cliffs as a place to entrap and butcher bison.  The site, which we visited, is about 15 miles out a dead end road with no other signs of habitation.  There is a seven story structure, built in terraces into the hillside, which serves as a museum.  You begin with a film and then are directed up to the top to view the plains and cliffs which are the "buffalo jump".   The way down is through a series of galleries that take you down the seven stories to, of course, the gift shop.   It is really quite well done and blends gently in to an otherwise bucolic landscape of rolling grass lands.  

DRUMHELLER

As to "Head Smashed In", the story is a young man, wishing to become a part of the hunting party  hid himself in an overhang under the cliff to watch the animals fall to their deaths.  When the tribe was in the process of removing the dead and dying animals from the heap at the bottom of the cliff they found the young man with his head smashed in.  Not terribly prosaic, but it tells the story.  

 We are on our third day of driving somewhere in the neighborhood of 400 miles pulling a trailer.  At the outset we discussed the feasibility of driving no faster than 55-60 mph to help with the gas mileage and more specifically, the cost of fuel.   The one advantage is you actually get to look at what is outside and may actually spot those historical markers before they flash by your window.  The Canadian government has done their part to assist us with our goal.  Before hitting Canada Hwy 2 we saw nothing but two lane roads and not once did the speed limit exceed 100 kph, which translate to roughly 60 mph.  The speeds may be more moderate than at home but there does seem to be this unwritten rule that if you really want to pass someone you wait until there is a blind curve with a double yellow line and then go for it.  Nothing like tootling along at 55 and seeing a great big pickup bearing down on you and the only place to go is in to the ditch on the side of the road.  That little burst of adrenalin, just kinda kick starts your day! 

DINOSAUR #1

When we left home our intent was to make for Edmonton, Alberta; which is,  by the way, the provincial capitol, much to the dismay of the Calgarians.  But, as is often the case, with us at least, when on the road plans change.  Seems the Royal Tyrell Museum in Drummheller, Alberta, is a mecca for those interested in Dinosaurs, especially Ceratopsians (as in Triceratops).  And, so it was we took a detour east to explore the wonders of giant, extinct animals.  Mick had a blast and I admit to being mildly amused by the stories of how the remains had been found, excavated and preserved.  Frankly though, a day is more than enough to devote to creatures which are long dead and additional time on the dinosaur trail was not in the cards.   Would I recommend a visit to Drumheller, absolutely, particularly if you have little people in tow.  It is extremely well done, with plenty of explanations, hands on opportunities and air conditioning!! Just be prepared for miles upon miles of yellow rape fields and no civilization to speak of.  Once there you can have a good giggle at the dinosaur models to be found in front yards, entrances to business establishments, in childrens’ playgrounds, and especially the four story tall Tyrannosaurus Rex at the visitors center.  

DINOSAUR #2

DINOSAUR #3

So it was we turned our sights, once again, on Edmonton.

THINGS I HAVE LEARNED


-  Canola oil is a derivation of Canadian oil, where it was hybridized and where it is grown extensively
-  Canadians measure driving distances in travel time, not kilometers travelled, oh, say 3 hours down the road
-  20 degrees centigrade is comfortable, 30 is not.
-  The roads in the rural areas don't have names, they are numbered as either Township xx, north/south (I think) or Range xx, east/west

ROAD TRIP CANADA 2014 PART I

In truth it is, as I write, the 7^th of July and we are nowhere near either Miami Florida or the UK.   But what I find as I open this document is the remnants of something I began several months ago and never finished.  Being incapable (apparently) of deleting partially completed work I shall share what is currently here, before  beginning our current road trip.  

Saturday Morning, Miami Florida

I thought I had seen a lightning storm, but I was wrong.  We are on the fourth floor of midrise downtown hotel, looking out over the Miami River and outside our window is a sound and light show like nothing I have ever seen.  The sky is alight as if someone were incessantly flicking a light switch on and off as fast as they possible.  While the intensity of the light is as though hundreds of flash bulbs were going off simultaneously. It is hard to look out the window, the glare is so intense.  A blue white haze envelopes the sky, playing off the water droplets like so many prisms.  The air is full of the sound of a hundred Indy car drivers revving their motors simultaneously, a deep angry growl.  The occasional streak of fork lightening silhouettes a metro rail train car suspended over the inky blackness of the Miami River running across an insubstantial track glowing silver in the reflected light.  The sound of the thunder, so nearby changes, it is no longer a growl but the sound of trash can lids clashing together.  The rain, which is torrenting down, is so intense our view of the skyline seems wrapped in fog, occluded by a gauzy shroud of water.  After more than an hour it seems to be moving on, I wonder what the rest of the day will bring.  And so concludes our creative writing assignment for today!!

In order to dispel severe confusion, it is no longer July 7, but in fact July 28.  This is the first internet access we have had in two weeks.  And so the saga begins. 

ROAD TRIP – CANADA

We’re on the road again.  This trip will not be one of our months’ long marathons across the US but, a five week trip up into Canada.  The plan is to travel up to Edmonton and then down through Jasper, Lake Louise, Banff, Glacier and the east side of Hells Canyon, ultimately back into Oregon and home.  We took the opportunity to check out the tent trailer with a two night trip to a camp ground on the Rogue River just a little over an hour away from home.  Everything seemed to be in order.  Although after so many trips, (I reckon we have spent in excess of a year sleeping on the original foam mattress) we did invest in a memory foam topper which has made a vast improvement in comfort.

Over the years we have spent enough time in our home, away from home, that we have it paired down to bare necessities.  With the addition of perishable food and clothes we can hitch ‘er up and be on the road in under an hour.  It remains stocked with sheets and towels, warm slippers, sweats and wooly hats at all times.  Basic canned goods, plastic containers of sugar, flour and rice, hot cereal and soup are always in the pantry.  An electric heater, a radio/i-pod player and a 6”, flat screen TV round out our modern conveniences.  It has a two burner stove, so there is no need for more than three pans (small, medium and large), and since we don’t often “entertain” four plates, four knives, four cups . . . you get the idea, seems more than adequate.  We traded in our old style, percolator coffee pot, for a kettle (works for tea, coffee and the production of hot water for washing us and the dishes) and a drip cone for brewing coffee.  Toast can be made by sticking bread on a fork and holding it over an open flame.  A couple of years ago we invested in a camp oven, with two extra burners and a “camp kitchen” which is really just a stand for the oven and a flat surface for food prep and dishwashing.  On long trips you sometimes want something cooked in an oven, like meatloaf or corn bread.  Extends your repertoire immensely and better still, if the weather is fine we can cook out of doors.  The “wash kit” remains behind as well, shampoo, conditioner, toothbrushes and toothpaste, hair brushes, nail clippers and a mirror, all the necessities as it were. Naturally, there is a first aid kit, sunscreen, bug spray and “After-Bite”, for when the bug spray doesn’t work.   At first we were concerned about the weather (what happens to toothpaste if it freezes . . . nothing) or critters, but so far no issues.  Our latest extravagance, an outdoor carpet from Walmart.  Looks classy, keeps the dirt out and provides a surface for yoga mats. Which, yes we do occasionally do, much to the amusement of neighboring campers.  It is all just there and ready to roll.  

Getting anywhere by vehicle, from Ashland, is not a simple proposition.  First off, you need to understand that it is a minimum of a three hour drive to get to anywhere with a population in excess of 50,000 souls and all of Oregon has less population than the San Francisco Bay Area.  However, our objective was not large population centers but rural Canada.  Our normal pace of a maximum of four hours drive time when pulling the tent trailer was not going to be workable.  So instead we went for the gusto, drive ‘til you can’t drive no more.  We had a pretty good rhythm going, up over the Cascades past Crater Lake and down to Bend, changing drivers every hour and a half or so.   A quick stop for lunch out of the cooler and another to purchase cherries from a vendor on the side of the road.  It looked like Biggs Junction and the Columbia River were a distinct possibility.  We were on roads we had not previously traveled and the population is pretty sparse in Eastern Oregon.  Range land and wheat or other grass crops and carrot seeds was about all there was.  A no gas for 94 miles sign engendered a quick U-turn and a re-fueling stop.  We flew past the wide spot in the road labeled that looked like something from a grade B western and made Hermiston for our first night.

Moving north toward Spokane is an ever changing landscape.  You would expect there to be green along the river, but much of the Columbia shore is dry and barren or steep cliffs.  Into Washington you get some agriculture and rolling hills, not as verdant as the Palouse but not dry and brown.  Slowly fields and meadows were replaced by stands of conifers and the two lane road became four the closer we got to Spokane.  Spokane sits in a river valley and probably deserves to be explored, but not this trip.  We press north, crossing in to Idaho and skirting Coeur D’Alene we make for Eastport . . . and the Canadian border.  Quickly, it is back to two lane roads, rolling hills, almost mountains and trees.     

We stop for the night in Cranbrook, British Columbia.  Nice little RV/camping site right in town makes it convenient to go in to town for dinner rather than cooking.