BREAKFAST IN MIAMI |
I didn't really share any photos from Miami, so will take this opportunity. We found this fun little Cuban restaurant just a couple of blocks from our hotel. One stop and it became our go to place for breakfast. There were two tables besides the stools you can see and a bar on the street front where people stopped for their morning cup of Cuban coffee, an espresso with a touch of milk and plenty of demerara sugar. Their huevos rancheros were killer as well. There was something a little sweet about the beans and no typical chopped tomato salsa but more like a chunky enchilada sauce and fried plantains, yum.
Our stop wasn't only about food and lightening storms. Ostensibly we were going to check out South Beach and the treasure of Art Deco buildings for which it is famous. South Beach has a curious history. It became prominent in the '20s as a vacation spot. That was when all the hotels were built. I seem to remember something about a hurricane destroying the previous community but can't seem to find any verification of that. The long and the short of it, the area went in to decline and became a haven for the senior set and drugs (remember Miami Vice). It wasn't until the 90s that it was rediscovered and all those SRO (single room occupancy) hotels became once again fashionable. It is the largest collection of Art Deco buildings in the west and they are doing there best rehab and renew what would have been lost to development had it not been for all those seniors living on social security in these fabulous old building which were slowly sliding in to decay.
Maybe a little more about food, I mean really, what are vacations for if not for eating. So, we did the tour, checked out the buildings, saw the place where Gianni Versace was murdered, walked a little on the beach, visited the Holocaust Memorial and then, time for lunch. Saw this Art Deco Deli on our wanders and it was nearby so in we go. The lights above were inside and you can see the exterior here. The food, not so special, except we got as many free pickles as we could eat (3). The waitress though, what a character. She was 60 if she was a day, long bleached blonde hair, way too much makeup (blue eye shadow), red finger nails, hoop earrings, big colorful bead necklace and bracelet and attitude to spare. I'm pretty certain she told us what to order all the way down to pie for dessert.
CANADA ROAD TRIP PART II
Rise and shine. Another day beckons and our first planned destination is within a reasonable drive. Leaving Cranbrook behind, we head for Crownsnest Pass and the road to Calgary. We are in the Canadian Rockies, there are ski resorts, and yet it doesn’t really feel like the mountains. I’m a California girl, and mountains are the Sierras. The mountains at home are so massive you hardly ever see distinct peaks, just a mass of granite and green reaching in to the sky. At home you drive up the mountains and then you go down the other side. The Rockies are something else entirely. There are long green valleys and meandering streams, and enormous individual peaks capped with snow. I guess it is more like being in Yosemite, which makes sense given both areas were carved by glaciers. But before the mountains and glaciers we are bound for the prairies and eastern Alberta. Our destination Crowsnest Pass and the flat lands beyond. A quick stop at the visitor’s information center garnered us a “Visit Alberta” Frisbee and a free cup of coffee as well as plenty of recommendations on places to go and things to see. Next stop, “Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump”.
Room with a View |
Our stop wasn't only about food and lightening storms. Ostensibly we were going to check out South Beach and the treasure of Art Deco buildings for which it is famous. South Beach has a curious history. It became prominent in the '20s as a vacation spot. That was when all the hotels were built. I seem to remember something about a hurricane destroying the previous community but can't seem to find any verification of that. The long and the short of it, the area went in to decline and became a haven for the senior set and drugs (remember Miami Vice). It wasn't until the 90s that it was rediscovered and all those SRO (single room occupancy) hotels became once again fashionable. It is the largest collection of Art Deco buildings in the west and they are doing there best rehab and renew what would have been lost to development had it not been for all those seniors living on social security in these fabulous old building which were slowly sliding in to decay.
Love the lights |
Maybe a little more about food, I mean really, what are vacations for if not for eating. So, we did the tour, checked out the buildings, saw the place where Gianni Versace was murdered, walked a little on the beach, visited the Holocaust Memorial and then, time for lunch. Saw this Art Deco Deli on our wanders and it was nearby so in we go. The lights above were inside and you can see the exterior here. The food, not so special, except we got as many free pickles as we could eat (3). The waitress though, what a character. She was 60 if she was a day, long bleached blonde hair, way too much makeup (blue eye shadow), red finger nails, hoop earrings, big colorful bead necklace and bracelet and attitude to spare. I'm pretty certain she told us what to order all the way down to pie for dessert.
CANADA ROAD TRIP PART II
Rise and shine. Another day beckons and our first planned destination is within a reasonable drive. Leaving Cranbrook behind, we head for Crownsnest Pass and the road to Calgary. We are in the Canadian Rockies, there are ski resorts, and yet it doesn’t really feel like the mountains. I’m a California girl, and mountains are the Sierras. The mountains at home are so massive you hardly ever see distinct peaks, just a mass of granite and green reaching in to the sky. At home you drive up the mountains and then you go down the other side. The Rockies are something else entirely. There are long green valleys and meandering streams, and enormous individual peaks capped with snow. I guess it is more like being in Yosemite, which makes sense given both areas were carved by glaciers. But before the mountains and glaciers we are bound for the prairies and eastern Alberta. Our destination Crowsnest Pass and the flat lands beyond. A quick stop at the visitor’s information center garnered us a “Visit Alberta” Frisbee and a free cup of coffee as well as plenty of recommendations on places to go and things to see. Next stop, “Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump”.
Buffalo Jump - Not very impressive |
I’ll begin
with the "Buffalo Jump" part, which has little to do with the "Head Smashed In"
part. Ever wonder how the First Nations
people acquired enough buffalo to clothe themselves and make pemmican for the
winter without the benefit of horses?
Back in the day, (and that day extends from 10,000 years ago, give or
take, to present) when buffalo still roamed the plains from Canada to Mexico,
the First Nations people gathered together to participate in the killing and
slaughtering (butchering) of buffalo. Up
on the plains groups of men built cairns (stacks of rocks) demarcating an ever
narrower path that directed the herd toward the cliff now called Head Smashed In
Buffalo Jump. The cairns were covered
with wolf hides and “planted” with trees to discourage the buffalo from turning
aside from the cliff toward which they were being herded. Ultimately additional men lined the edges of
the trail as braves in wolf skins began ushering the animals toward the cliff. In the end, those lining the path jump out
yelling, resulting in a stampede which carried the animals forward and over the
cliff to their deaths. Here, at the base
of the cliff, the women and children waited and when all were assembled the
process of butchering, drying and otherwise preserving the meat was carried
on. Buffalo jumps exist all over Canada
and presumably the plains or the US. Not
every jump saw action every year, it was a matter of where the buffalo were
found at any given time. But this
particular spot has been excavated and there was evidence of a long standing
use of these cliffs as a place to entrap and butcher bison. The site, which we visited, is about 15 miles
out a dead end road with no other signs of habitation. There is a seven story structure, built in
terraces into the hillside, which serves as a museum. You begin with a film and then are directed up to the top to view the plains and cliffs which are the "buffalo jump". The way down is through a series of galleries that take you down the seven stories to, of course, the gift shop.
It is really quite well done and blends gently in to an otherwise
bucolic landscape of rolling grass lands.
DRUMHELLER |
We are on our third day of driving somewhere in the neighborhood of 400 miles pulling a trailer. At the outset we discussed the feasibility of driving no faster than 55-60 mph to help with the gas mileage and more specifically, the cost of fuel. The one advantage is you actually get to look at what is outside and may actually spot those historical markers before they flash by your window. The Canadian government has done their part to assist us with our goal. Before hitting Canada Hwy 2 we saw nothing but two lane roads and not once did the speed limit exceed 100 kph, which translate to roughly 60 mph. The speeds may be more moderate than at home but there does seem to be this unwritten rule that if you really want to pass someone you wait until there is a blind curve with a double yellow line and then go for it. Nothing like tootling along at 55 and seeing a great big pickup bearing down on you and the only place to go is in to the ditch on the side of the road. That little burst of adrenalin, just kinda kick starts your day!
DINOSAUR #1 |
When we left
home our intent was to make for Edmonton, Alberta; which is, by the way, the
provincial capitol, much to the dismay of the Calgarians. But, as is often the case, with us at least, when on the road
plans change. Seems the Royal Tyrell
Museum in Drummheller, Alberta, is a mecca for those interested in Dinosaurs,
especially Ceratopsians (as in Triceratops).
And, so it was we took a detour east to explore the wonders of giant,
extinct animals. Mick had a blast and I
admit to being mildly amused by the stories of how the remains had been found,
excavated and preserved. Frankly though, a day
is more than enough to devote to creatures which are long dead and additional time on the
dinosaur trail was not in the cards. Would I recommend a visit to Drumheller,
absolutely, particularly if you have little people in tow. It is extremely well done, with plenty of explanations, hands on opportunities and air conditioning!! Just be prepared for miles
upon miles of yellow rape fields and no civilization to speak of. Once there you can have a good giggle at the
dinosaur models to be found in front yards, entrances to business
establishments, in childrens’ playgrounds, and especially the four story tall Tyrannosaurus Rex at the visitors center.
DINOSAUR #2 |
DINOSAUR #3 |
So it was we turned our sights, once again, on Edmonton.
THINGS I HAVE LEARNED
- Canola oil is a derivation of Canadian oil, where it was hybridized and where it is grown extensively
- Canadians measure driving distances in travel time, not kilometers travelled, oh, say 3 hours down the road
- 20 degrees centigrade is comfortable, 30 is not.
- The roads in the rural areas don't have names, they are numbered as either Township xx, north/south (I think) or Range xx, east/west
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