ITALY ADVENTURES 2017 ISSUE II

Now begins our Rick Steves tour, way too many cities in just 17 days.  At a little over a week in and I am already confused by where we went and in what order.  A quick review of our itinerary tells me our first stop was Castlerotto, in the north east corner of the country.  This is where the Dolomites

intersect with the Alps.  Mick could probably tell you a whole lot more about the geomorphology of the area, for me it is just beautiful mountains.  This is a ski area in the winter and a hiking destination in the summer.

Several of our group tackle some serious hikes but the majority of us settle for a wander in the panoramic upland meadow, with a stop for hot chocolate and cookies. It is a truly beautiful location with little to do except enjoy the out of doors.

My declared intent was to eat my way through Italy but this stop entailed an included dinner at an excellent restaurant that featured some outstanding German food.  I chose Wiener schnitzel and I think Mick had some sort of big German dumpling and stew.  Regret not ordering the lamb

but managed to snag a taste from another diner any way.  

 As I look back at my pictures I realize that our first stop was not Castlerotto but Verona of Romeo and Juliet fame.  Not to mention two Gentlemen of Verona and the Taming of the Shrew.  It quickly becomes obvious, the pattern for the trip is on the bus between eight and nine, a stop on the autostrada for toilets and a quick espresso and a sightseeing stop for lunch.  Back on the bus to our final destination and spend two nights.  Local  sight seeing on day two, sleep and repeat. 

Verona was a walking tour with a local guide who pointed out some of the architectural details that help define the place and its history.  One of the things that intrigued me, and admittedly something she stressed, was the crenellations or shape of the top of the parapets. 

The explanation was that the “M” or swallowtail shape denoted a Germanic influence rather than papist.  This is not to say they weren’t Catholic but by her explanation a bit more socially independent.  The parapets with a shape more like an upside down “u” or "n” indicated strong support for the pope. 

We were able to see the exterior of the local Roman Arena which is still being used for concerts.  All of this led to a discussion of the different forms of theatre buildings produced by the Romans.  Fundamentally the difference between a Roman amphitheater and a Roman theatre is the shape, theatres have a semi-circular arrangement of raised seating looking into a stage, whereas an amphitheater is a 'theatre in the round' much like a football stadium.

More architectural minutiae, Greek buildings are never more than a single story as they never mastered the intricacy of the arch. Our tour guide was a serious fan of a particular Veronese family and provided tons of details about their good works and family history which I shall refrain from imparting to you in the guise of a travel blog.

On to Venice via Bolsano where we stopped for a museum devoted to Otzi, the Ice Man. His body was found by hikers in

1991 and they thought he might be a hiker who had gone missing much earlier in the century. Instead what they found was a “wet” mummy with skin and bones intact that was more than 3500 years old. Not a great museum, how much do you really want to know about a 3500 year old mummy but somewhat intriguing all the same.  There was a lot about the fight between Italy and Switzerland as to ownership of his body, Italy won.  The ground floor was pretty indifferent and seeing his mummified body was unnecessary but what they were able to determine was fascinating. I tend to think of the Pharaohs and the pyramids as being really early history but Otzi lived before that, somewhere between the time of the Lascaux cave paintings and the Pharaohs. The upper floors had lots of information about how his clothing was constructed and of what materials, his weapons and tools, his last meal and how he died, all in good English.  Modern technology has provided us with so much information, I can’t begin to fathom what they might learn from relics like this is another 50 years.

New experience for the day . . . Ugo.

Not to be outdone by other regions of Italy that champion the cause of the “Aperol Spritz”, Campari Spritz or the Negroni.  Bolsano is the place for Ugo, a drink of Elderflower syrup, Prossecco, “spritz” (aka soda water) and mint. It must be 5 o’clock somewhere even if it isn’t quite noon in Bolsano.

We explore the farmers market. It is September and there is an abundance of peppers and tomatoes, plums and figs and plenty of other food stuffs. I spot Italian plums, the oblong purple fruit with the yellow flesh that my aunt used to grow. I’m thinking snack but the proprietor is thinking too much trouble. When I ask for four plums the look I get speaks volumes, no need for rudimentary Italian to get the message.

 Next stop Venice. The one thing I can say about Rick Steves tours, it is all about location. We get off the bus in Maestre, for Venice is truly a city without vehicular traffic. We board a vaporetto, or water taxi, though it would be more accurate to describe it as a water bus, and proceed down the Grand Canal to our final destination.

Our hotel, a reasonably short walk over cobbles, up and down stairs and across several bridges, is around the corner from the Opera House and perhaps three blocks from St. Marks Square. Couldn’t hardly be more convenient to all the sights. With Rick Steves, you may trade a bit of comfort or luxury for a central location. Having said that, you do have to be prepared to lug your bags across those selfsame cobbles, up and down the stairs, over the bridges and having arrived at the hotel, you then have to carry the same luggage and your tired self up and down multiple flights of stairs. Glad to have Mick along. He would take off to our room with one bag, while I followed behind, much more slowly. The, magically, he would appear to take over long before I made it to our room.

DELIVERY BOATS BEING LOADED

Venice is magical and exhausting. They say there are more than 400 bridges over the various canals. EVERYTHING comes in on small boats. Early morning the canals are alive with delivery boats. All of the things we expect to be available in stores, toilet paper, wine, groceries, pencils, washing machines, building supplies, milk, paving stones, it all comes in loaded on boats about the size of your typical speed boat. That however only gets it as far as the edge of a canal. From there it is transported to its final destination via hand carts. 

Someone yelling ATTENZIONE, means you are likely to see someone pushing a cart carrying new windows or a grocers supply of wine. Not only does everything come in this way, including the mail, it goes out in the same fashion. Consider what garbage removal must entail!!

Venice means gondola rides, which we actually did and trips to Murano glass factories, which we didn’t do. Gondolas seem so touristy that I admit to being just enough of a snob

to want to bypass. Glad we didn’t pass it up, what a delight. The gentle motion of the boat, soft shadows, the quiet sound of the poles in the water and quick glimpses in through windows of the residents and their spaces, lovely. Also a place of “small world” moments. Exiting the gondola and headed for St. Marks Square, I hear my name being called out. I turn to discover Pam Thomas an acquaintance from Ashland walking down the narrow lane. Ain’t life amazing.

One more moment of food and surprises to share before moving on. Food is always important and I had plans of eating clams in Venice but with so many other choices, expectations are not always met. We tried to get in to a Trattoria that offered seafood only to find they were full. We are immediately directed across the street and ushered in to a small bar with perhaps four tables. I’m a little uncertain of what is happening but decide to go with the flow. That is what adventures are made of. In pidgeon English we are told the food comes from the same kitchen and it is his wife that does the cooking. We barely order before we are presented with bread and then a saucepan appears and we are dished up a small portion of gnocchi, prosciutto, bread, and cheese. Our dinner arrives and I realize when they said the same kitchen it was quite literally true. The filled plates are coming from across the street. serving of apple cake and a bag of pasta!

Don’t get too concerned, by “across the street” I really mean across an alley probably no more than five feet wide which functions quite successfully as a pedestrian street in Venice (remember, no cars). As if the unordered starters are not enough we enjoy grappa with raisins floating in it, limoncella, a sweet red wine and cookies as a complimentary dessert. When asking for the bill my wine glass goes crashing to floor, so along with the bill there is an additional 

 

ERRATA

•  Inside the city walls of Verona there are no “churches”, just chapels. 
• Acqua alta occurs when certain events coincide, such as: A very high tide (usually during a full or new moon). Low atmospheric pressure. A scirocco wind blowing up the narrow, shallow Adriatic Sea, which forces water into the Venetian Lagoon.
• When St Marks Square floods they simply put up wooden walkways that allow you to traverse the space without getting your feet wet
• The Bridge of Sighs is nothing special.  It was named by Lord Byron and the stories about prisoners are poetic license. 
• Shakespeare never visited Verona and his characters in Romeo and Juliet never existed but tourists still flock to see Juliet's Balcony.

ITALY ADVENTURES 2017 ISSUE 1

We’re on the road again or more specifically on the plane, train and bus.  It’s Italy a la Rick Steves of PBS fame.  With a nine hour time difference it is difficult to know how to deal with jet lag so our adventure begins with an attempt (somewhat successful) to counteract its effects by making some lifestyle changes before getting anywhere near an airplane.  Naturally I totally forgot and instead of trying to change our sleep cycle four or five days before flying it was only three days.  More than that we had out of town visitors, which made getting up at three or four in the morning awkward particularly when we really wanted to go to bed at seven or eight at night.  Our major success in the jet lag department, getting up at two a.m. on Sunday morning for a nine a.m. flight and getting the house totally cleaned before we departed.  Bed changed, sheets washed, bathrooms cleaned and house vacuumed.  

Flying international out of Medford is always such a joy.  It means an hour plus, give or take, trip to either San Francisco or Portland before you even begin.   I now begin to understand horror stories of multiple short flights before getting anywhere near your destination.  By the time we landed my phone showed nearly 10,000 paces all in airports, Frankfurt being the longest with a terminal that must have gone on for half a mile.  Walk that once or twice while you’re waiting out your layover and you can chalk up some distance.  

First stop Milan(o) for two nights.  Not really long enough to get to know the place but enough to dip in and see the highlights..  A really nice business hotel near the train station ends up being a really smart move.  The weather is uncomfortably hot, low 90’s and 90% humidity means sweat is your constant companion but this place had air conditioning and a delightful barman by the name of Massimiano.  A stroll around the area to check out the Italian version of McDonalds and get our bearings leaves us ready for an aperitif and some dinner.  McDonalds in Italy is a horse of another color.  You have probably seen their stateside advertising for McCafe.  They really mean it in Italy.  Am told even the food has an Italian air but the coffee is definitely nothing you will see in downtown U.S.A.  Never mind the espresso machines, there were lovely pastries and gelato.  All at a separate counter from the food. 

Back to the hotel to regroup and consider our dinner options, we agree to meet up with Carol and Frank our longtime European travelling companions, in the bar for a quick drink and perhaps enjoy the delights of happy hour.  Carol has done her research and knows that an Aperol Spritz is the in thing these days.  A combination of Aperol, a bitter orange flavored fortified wine and Prosecco, it glass with ice (an uncommon ingredient) and a slice of orange.  It is a distinctly neon shade of orange and appears totally unappetising to me but she declares it “refreshing” and has continued to enjoy it as her drink of choice before dinner ever since. Mick opts for a Negroni . . . a combination of Campari, Gin and something bubbly, most probably Prosecco.  Frank has a tequila sunrise and I settle for Martini Rosso, red vermouth with a slice of lemon peel.
comes in a large wine

A few free nibbles at a bar is an Italian custom of which I deeply approve given that there is no point even thinking about an evening meal before 7:30 p.m. The bar at Hotel Berna was offering bruschetta, frittata, sliced cheese, salami and pizza.  We sat and chatted and quizzed Max about things to do.  We relax and Max (Massimianno) disappears in to the nether regions of the hotel.  As we begin our conversation about when and where to eat, chunks of sausage appear and then arancini (deep fried balls of rice with a meat and pea stuffing.)  Score, thank you Hotel Berna and Max, no need to go out to dinner.

Duomo

Duomo Roof Detail

With only a day in Milan and jet lag to contend with we choose to take it easy.  If we miss something really important, there is always next time.  Unless of course there isn’t.  My theory, no need to beat yourself up trying to see and do it all, take your time and enjoy what do see.  If you don’t see it you will never know what you missed.  Naturally we need to take in the Duomo, the third  largest church in Europe, right behind St. Peters in the Vatican and a Catholic church in Brazil.  It feels a bit like another ABC day . . .  another bloody church, another bloody castle or another bloody cathedral until you make your way up to the roof.  Stained glass, yes.  Long aisles and majestic altars yes.  Statues and chapels and marble floor, yes.  Acres of pews, yes.  Like I said, ABC.  But the roof is like no other I have experienced, they call it Milan’s forest.  A Gothic forest of spires, staircases and arches, with a view of the city spread out before you. 

Duomo Roof

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele

A quick glimpse at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the world's oldest mall.  Housed inside a four-story arcade in central Milan. It is one of those glass and marble affairs full of high end shops like Prada and Borcellino but was actually designed in 1861 and built between 1865 and 1877.  A wonder down some narrow streets and across a few piazzas and we spot the La Scala Opera House.  A rather unprepossessing building despite its prestigious name.  Nothing playing tonight so we pass on by in search of further adventures.

The time has come to move on to art so Mick can begin to fill out his score card with Caravaggio’s and lunch so Gayle can fulfil her destiny of eating her way across Italy. 

Eating in Italy is a nightmare and a dream come true, all in the same breath. 

Caravaggio

The plates are generally small but the number of potential courses can be overwhelming.  An appetizer could be prosciutto and melons or small fishes (heads and all) lightly battered and fried.   Follow this with a pasta or rice course.   Each pasta sauce has a shape/style of noodle that is thought to best enhance that sauce.  The selection of noodles in the grocery store is mind boggling, but perhaps more on that later.  We have not finished, pasta in theory, if not in practice is a course unto itself.  Next comes a meat or fish course, possibly with potato and vegetables.  Now if this were a Ferrari family meal the salad course would be next.  But it seems that this custom has gone by the wayside in the last 50 years.  For dolce (sweet) you may be offered your “bog standard’ Tiramisu and gelato or the more esoteric panna cotta or possibly fruit and cheese.  I have barely begun my discussion of food but then I’m only on day two.  And if you recall this trip is about eating my way through Italy. 

The Kiss

We end our sojourn in Milan with a stop at Maria del Grazie and Michelangelo’s Last Supper.  This was not particularly high on my to-do list, not being a fan of the early religious paintings.  However, the audio tour gave me a real appreciation for what he accomplished.  Can I tell you what made it special, no.  But the recording did bring the imagery to life and provided a glimpse into the techniques that made Michelangelo so successful. 

An hours train ride, at a cost of less than $10 takes us up into the foothills of the Alps and Italy’s Lake District.  Here is where we pick up our Rick Steves tour.  We are booked in to Villa Cipressi, in the town of Varenna, on the shores of Lake Como.  There are motorways/highways/ autostrada in Italy but we have left those far behind.  This is the land of narrow winding mountain roads, tunnels and

Maria del Grazie

bridges.  By all rights there should hardly be roads here.  There is very little shoreline to the lake and the roads and often the villages perch half way up the side of a mountain. 

I cannot begin to describe the landscape but it is beautiful, the mountains are tree draped, the water is glacial blue and the housing stock painted in shades of yellow, cream and soft brown.  This is not a location with much to do, it is an area of relaxation.  There are narrow cobbled streets (contrada) to explore, leading steeply down to the waters edge.  These alleyways are a mix of shops, hotels, restaurants, gelaterias and private homes.  The buildings go up three or four stories and there often are arching extensions connecting one side of the street with the other.  Don’t think for a moment I am talking about streets that carry cars.  There is one road, partially cobbled, that runs through the center of Varenna, while the housing and commercial establishments extend far beyond this street with there only access by foot.  You see tourists bumping up and down the cobbles with there luggage.  I have visions of the locals stealing out after dark with there electric vehicles secretly moving through these alleys with groceries and laundry and other sundries.  Can you imagine trying to run a business, particularly a restaurant where you had to carry all your supplies in by hand?  

 

Varenna

 

ERRATA:

1. Within half an hour I saw three women breast feeding in the central piazza. 
2. The bells, the bells, they’re driving me mad. . .  Mervyn Peake, Gormenghast, I think.  This tiny village is a mecca for weddings and the church bells seem to ring incessantly, celebrating yet another nuptial,
3. It’s Italy, you don’t make accommodations for appearances even if it means wearing six inch heels while walking over cobblestone streets in a wedding dress.
4. It is possible to have room envy.  Your room may have an amazing view but when the temperature remains in the 80s you would happily trade a view for ac or second window.
5. None of these pictures are mine, I had to "borrow" them from the net,  I forgot to bring the cable to transfer them to my laptop.  I may start using my phone.

 

4.